decided to ditch the battery and swap the SRAM for a proper NVRAM on a Pokemon Yellow cartridge, 23 years later. These coin cells last 10-15 years, and many of the Pokemon games came out 20 years ago. Generally, Pokemon games before the GameBoy Advance era had SRAM and a small coin cell to save state as NVRAM (Non-volatile random access memory) was more expensive.
You may want to insulate the connections to the LEDs, but I didn't find a problem with it.The precious Pokemon we spent hours capturing in the early nineties remain trapped, not just by pokeballs, but within a cartridge ravaged by time. If not, check all your connections, and make sure you have the polarity right on your LEDs. You should now have everything soldered together! Flip the switch and see if everything lights up okay. My LEDs are rated for 3.1v, but if your LEDs are rated for a lower voltage, you may want to add a small resistor (100 Ohms) to extend the life of them. Finally, solder a short wire from the positive side of your LED to the positive battery terminal, labeled BT+. You should have something like in the sixth picture. Solder the other wire from the switch to the negative side of one of your LEDs. You can tell on the LED which side is positive because the negative side has a flat spot at the base. Solder the other ends of the wires to your other LED, making sure you pay attention to the polarity. Next cut the leads shorter on your LEDs, then solder red and black wires to one of them. After you put the switch in, solder one of the wires to the negative battery terminal labeled BT- on top of the white part of the PCB. IMPORTANT: Put the switch in its hole before you solder the wires to anything, or you will have troubles later.
I didn't use red and black, but you can if you like. Take your switch and solder two wires to the switch. You should now have your Gameboy taken apart, the hole for the switch cut out, and two diffused LEDs.
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